Your leather queries answered

Have you ever found yourself unsure about the benefits of different types of leather? Leather is one of the most durable materials for footwear, thanks to its natural strength and resistance to heat and cold. With the right care, it can maintain its original character for many years. There are several different types of leather including suede, nubuck, oiled and smooth leather which all have specific characteristics.

If you’ve always wondered which leather is best for your needs and how to care for the different types, read on to view our answers to our most commonly asked questions!

What are the benefits of suede and nubuck and how durable are they?

Suede and nubuck appear similar because they both have a textured, velvety finish, bringing a sense of understated cool with a touch of class to both casual and dressier outfits. Suede is crafted from using the inside of the leather hide, whereas nubuck is crafted from sanding or buffing the outside of the leather hide.

Generally speaking, nubuck and suede are both very durable; they each contain residual waxes from the tanning process which make these finishes naturally resilient. Both finishes need waterproofing and regular brushing to maintain their appearance and to protect the leather.

Being natural products, the surface of all leather contains pores, making it breathable to wear, but also means that it can be more vulnerable to weather, wear and tear. On the other hand it also means they will soften and develop personality and integrity as time goes on. Leather may develop small ‘character marks’ that simply tell a story of the journey the shoe has taken as part of your well-lived life, and when cared for, will only look better with age.

How is oiled leather created?

Oiled leather is created by treating the hide with natural oils, waxes and fats during the tanning process which deeply saturates the fibres. This process gives the leather a soft, pliable feel, added durability and water resistance. After oiling, the leather may be buffed to achieve a matte or polished finish, often resulting in a rich, deep colour.

 How does oiled leather wear? 

As oiled leather ages, it develops a unique character, gaining depth in colour, plus a slight sheen from natural wear. The leather resists water well due to the oils and will show creases and scuffs that add to its character – a little like your favourite pair of blue jeans. Scratches can often be rubbed out thanks to the leather’s oily nature, and occasional conditioning with a leather balm helps maintain its softness, colour and water resistance.

What are the benefits of full grain leather? How do I maintain full grain leather?

Full grain leather is highly durable and develops a distinctive patina over time. It is breathable and therefore comfortable for long periods of wear, retaining natural imperfections that give it an authentic look. To maintain full grain leather, clean it regularly with a soft cloth , condition it every few months with a high-quality shoe cream to keep it soft and prevent drying, and apply a waterproofing treatment (see following).

A high-quality shoe cream regularly applied keeps your shoes looking great and replaces the oils lost from wear. Store them in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Proper care allows full grain leather to last for decades, becoming even more appealing with age.

Is leather waterproof? Do I need to waterproof/spray my footwear?

All leather breathes through the pores of the natural skin, allowing air in and moisture out, which means that the overall health of the foot is taken care of. The porous nature means that it is not water resistant and most leather finishes used in men’s footwear need spraying with waterproofing spray regularly for protection.

By applying a waterproof spray you can protect the leather from the elements, creating a membrane that will allow rain (or other liquids) to wick away, rather than be absorbed into the leather. Waterproofing spray will also benefit all textiles. The key is consistency in application – we recommend doing this every few months.

Gore-tex lined shoes and boots claim to be weatherproof, does that mean I don’t have to waterproof the leather or textile outer?

Shoes and boots with a Gore-tex lining have a breathable membrane, with small pores that let moisture from your feet escape, but water droplets cannot penetrate to make your feet wet – genius! We still, however, recommend waterproof spraying Gore-tex lined shoes and boots because the waterproof Gore-tex membrane is underneath the leather or textile outer, so to maintain the appearance of the leather and to reduce watermarking or spotting, it’s best to waterproof the outside of your shoes or boots.

Does leather stretch?

Leather has the fantastic ability to ‘give’ and mould to the shape of the foot in areas where pressure is applied, while still maintaining its shape to provide support. Different types of leather, thicknesses and linings will affect the amount that leather will ease. More structured styles will also ease less than softer styles with less structure.

We hope this leather Q&A has been useful to you! We love getting your queries in store and on our social media pages. Be sure to check out our full collection of shoe care products here, should you wish to give your most-loved Mikko Men’s styles a spruce, making them feel and look their best, for many years to come.

Michaela and team,
Mikko Shoes founder

For new season inspiration, take a look at our current collection catalogue.

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About Mikko
Mikko Men’s is for the contemporary man who values quality, sophistication, and long-wearing comfort. Prioritising authentic craftsmanship, superior design, and the latest innovation, all of our footwear styles are hand-picked from artisan brands that we consider the best in the world. 

The team at Mikko are professionally trained in fitting and styling, ready to help you find your next pair of men’s shoes that deliver on comfort. We have footwear that is orthotic and wide feet friendly. 

Mikko is a New Zealand, family-owned business. Facebook and Instagram page to see new arrivals and latest news. Visit Mikko Men’s at 134 Victoria St, Christchurch or 351 Remuera Road, Auckland, 13 Hunter Street Wellington, or shop online. Free shipping with all online orders of $100 or more.

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